Showing posts with label victorian mourning jewelry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label victorian mourning jewelry. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

blood milk

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Blood Milk is a jewelry designer (her name is J.L. Schnabel if we're splitting hairs here, and I rather enjoy her blog, which I discovered yesterday) based out of Philiadelphia whose collections at the moment are divided into several themes: Catholica Melancholia (lots of immaculate hearts, which, given my catholic school education at a school of the same name, I'm slightly less attracted to - bad memories and all), Surrealism, Ritual, and Victorian Mourning (my personal favorite).
I like her stuff because it hits the aesthetic I love while still being delicately wrought, unlike Pamela Love's jewelry, which I actually dislike in a lot of cases because it is so bulky and looks roughly hewn (which in my mind is the antithesis of jewelry). But Polyvore won't allow me to import photos from Etsy, because it's essentially just a huge marketing platform, fine, I get it. So, Pamela Love becomes the default jewelry in a lot of things, even though I'd probably never wear her stuff. Partially because it's so grotesquely overpriced.
I digress. Anyway, Blood Milk does some cool pieces, at reasonable prices. So check out her Etsy shop!

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Friday, May 15, 2009

hair

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Victorian Mourning Jewelry, as previously mentioned, has been inspiring a quite a few jewelry designers lately, Julie Deville, presumably Giselle Ganne, those Loved to Death goth kids. Hair, human hair, is a medium that no one really likes to consider, but it has a long history, certainly not just in Western culture. Apparently there is a long tradition of hair embroidery in China.

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This is actually lace made from human hair, from the 1640s I believe, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which is probably my favorite museum anywhere.

If you have the stomach for it, there's a 19th century hair watch fob over on an antiques website. It has a cool snake clasp thing.

Anyway, when I was looking for things to include with my tooth jewelry post, I came across Chris Habana, who did some cool hair and tooth pieces as an exclusive for a boutique in LA (and consequently I can't find a decent photo of them, but there is a wee tiny one over at coolhunting). I thought I'd put up a few more pieces of hair jewelry for funsies. Of course, New York Magazine already has a roundup you can read, but they beat me to everything by like three years, so whatever.

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Some hair necklaces from Francis Willemstijn, a Dutch artist who I know almost nothing about, because his website is in squiggly.

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A couple of pieces from Bijules NYC, which are actually incredibly expensive AND some are made of synthetic hair. To which I say, Good Day to you Sir!

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More pieces from our old friend Polly van der Glas, at the left a hoop earring, at the right, well it's actually a purse, but it totally looks like she scalped a wagon train for it (it's okay, they would have died of dysentery anyway).

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On the left, Julia Deville's hair and silver bone pin. She has similar pieces, one of which has a skull at the top shrouded in a bit of black silk (I think), but they aren't on her website. Perhaps too much of a memento mori for me. On the right is Rakk and Ruin's very cool hair jewelry from her Etsy shop. I'd seen her crystal and shell casing necklaces, but I just noticed the hair and casing necklace. Sweet.


Of course, jewelry isn't the only area where human hair has enjoyed a renewed popularity:

I can't help but feel bad for Chris March from Project Runway. I watched the finale with my friends and was the only one NOT disturbed by the human hair on the clothes. The judges were horrified and he didn't make it to the final three. Then of course it showed up all over the place. I'm not saying that he invented the idea, not by a long shot, but still kind of a bummer

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Chris March's Fall 2008 collection

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Gareth Pugh, Fall 2008

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From the work of Gemma Sack, who worked for Pugh back in the day.

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Givenchy Fall 2009 and goat fur dress by Russian designer Alena Akhmadullina FW09, who actually did some really fantastic knitwork for her SS09 collection that looks like knit ribcages sitting on top of delicate floral dresses.

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Margiela SS09, granted I don't this is is real human hair, and I suspect that applies to Givenchy too, but the look is still spreading, even if the particular species it comes from still walks on four legs. Or is made of plastic.

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Brian Lichtenberg Fall 2009. I couldn't find a full-length of this picture anywhere, so here it is in pieces.

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VPL by Victoria Bartlett Fall 2009. This is definitely human hair, because PETA was all over this. PETA can go fuck itself as far as I'm concerned.

At least I am not alone, Susie Bubble is down with hair in fashion (on fashion?). I loved the dress the Six Six Sick girls made for her, even though the hair on it is synthetic.
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Susie Bubble in her dress for the Six Six Sick party at Happy Ending (once I showed up completely blacked out and danced with a drag queen for like, an hour. Awesome). She's so cute.

And, lastly, for the shoe lovers of the world, to go with your new scalp purses:
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Camilla Skovgaard human hair and other stuff shoe.

And I'm spent.

sources: not now, too tired.

Monday, May 11, 2009

cut your teeth

I'm supposed to be writing a paper on Neopythagoreanism right now (I got an extension) but I don't feel like it. I can't find a copy of Porphyry's Life of Pythagoras and the only copy of Philostratus' Life of Apollonius of Tyana is locked up in the (currently closed) classics library. Lame. I have 16 or so hours before it's due, so on to better things: Tooth Jewelry. No, this doesn't mean grills or having sapphires implanted into your cainines. This is more of a ... making jewelry out of your cainines situation. Observe:


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Set of false teeth glued to a metal strip. Decidedly the creepiest of the lot. Available at this etsy shop.

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Okay, easily my favorite of the bunch. Erica Weiner got ahold of some partial bridges from the 1910s and 20s and made pins out of them. I only wish I had known about them sooner. Don't know if they're real or false, and don't care. They look like beetles and I can't help but be reminded of Patrick Bateman's Halloween costume, part of which involved Victoria Bell's finger bone fashioned into a buttonier. Erica Weiner has a blog where some of her one-off pieces are featured and go onto her etsy page rather than being sold through her main website.

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Victorian tooth jewelry from Loved to Death. They have brooches, rings, earrings, and necklaces. The settings are a little too ornate for my taste. Plus, jewelry in this style has a tendency to look a little Hot Topic-y and cheaply made.

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You have to wonder, where are they getting these teeth from? My initial instinct is to say China, because, as we all know, everything comes from China. However, I prefer to think that they are scavenged by a group of industrious young children as part of a tooth fairy money scam in order that they might finance the purchase of a Sega Dreamcast, but that's just me.

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At the opposite end of the spectrum is work by Polly Van der Glas, an artist from Australia whose work is featured on the National Association for the Visual Arts [of Australia] website. The settings on these are maybe a tad industrial-design for me, but I do like the knuckle-duster.

However, if you want to puss out, there are many metal options:

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These pieces are by an artist named Claire Johnston whose Tooth Fairy series began after her daughter began to lose her baby teeth. Apparently, like Loved to Death, she was inspired by Victorian Mourning Jewelry but thankfully refrained from using settings that make them look so tiresomely goth. She also has a blog.

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The obligatory Pamela Love and Alex & Chloe versions, available at Oak and Kabiri respectively:
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Neither of these looks right to me. The Pamela Love tooth is too stylized and the Alex & Chole too idealized. Besides, when they're rendered in gold it takes all of the transgressive power out of it and they become non-threatening and cartoonish and boring.

One of the reasons I'm attracted to tooth jewelry, besides the obvious creepiness factor, is that using my own wisdom teeth would be creating something uniquely mine. Granted, other people have tooth jewelry, but as it would be my tooth it wouldn't matter. I love to look at jewelry, but I often feel uncomfortable in jewelry made by strangers. Almost all of my jewelry is pieces my father made decades ago for my mother or for himself, so I feel some connection to them. It feels almost wrong to wear mass-marketed jewelry, much as I may ogle it inappropriately.

sources: etsy, nava.net.au, google images, oak, kabiri