where the devil is

detail shots from Limi Feu

frankie morello

Yes yes, very nice. Full-length moto trench, harnesses, zippers. The leather jacket in the first look is pretty Balmain-esque, but I'm very attracted to the whole look overall, including the bottoms, which are essentially see-through thermal pajamas. The second look is also quite nice - moto jacket with embellished shoulders, hoodie-dress thing going on over it, half-gloves. Look, it's all very on-trend, maybe a little contrived, but I don't care. I like it, I'd wear it. I'd even wear the hooded trench with the veil attached to it (not pictured).

Bora Aksu's Fall collection is kind of... perfect. Delicate confections wrought in pastels, like elaborate sugar flowers. It's difficult to even describe the details of these dresses, the spidery overlay, the textured knits, the piping. I only wish I could find more detail shots.

Aminaka Wilmont, Fall 2010

Ugh these prints are good. Just look at the enlarged photo above (left), it looks like the formation of a gaseous planet or the mist rising off of some glacial pool. I wish I could get bigger pictures, see the fabric in even more detail, take the dress dancing. I really like the black satin at the left chest bit of the dress, it gives it some...stability?

source: nymag, coutorture

preeeeeeeeen

For the first time in a long time, Fashion Month has rolled around at a time when I'm not completely burned out on fashion. Normally I wait for the entire thing to be over before I even begin to look at the new offerings, which puts me way behind the fashion curve (oh no!). Anyway, I like what Preen has going on for fall: the very structured bustlines with draping coming off them, slashed stuff, heavy wool fabrics - the second and fourth dresses look like a very expensive cashmere coat. I just sort of want to rub my face in them. (Too much?)


source: nymag

well look what we have here

Proenza Schouler Fall 2010

Why Jack and Lazaro, you've oudone yourselves. These prints are delightful (or in the parlance of our times, "sick"), and, with the exception of that second number (the black panel and high neckline are literally making me itch), the pieces are all cut beautifully. I really enjoy the pants from the first photo - as though someone has attacked a pair of innocent black jeans with an onslaught of ultramarine silly string. I'm a sucker for dark prints, thigh-highs, and long-sleeved mini dresses, so as a friend of mine would say, this collection is a melody. Plus the shoes look pretty cool.


source: nymag

more 3as4

ThreeASFOUR's Spring collection was based largely on the dot drawing series by Yoko Ono, who I can't lie, I've always sort of dismissed as an artist. But these patterns are beautiful, and I haven't seen the original drawings, but I'm charmed. The runway show itself was a bit of a performance art piece, with the models successively cutting a spiral garment off of the first model to appear. I quite like the idea.

Photos of the studio while the Spring collection was under works

Ono's drawings were reflected back in the makeup on the models

The shoes are the one of the most interesting parts of the collection to me - the combination of what are essentially stripper shoes with interesting bands and straps across them in black fabric, leather, and god knows what else.

bora aksu

At left, two looks from Fall 2009, at right two from Spring 2010

I don't know how Bora Aksu has managed to escape my attention thus far, but I am officially enthralled. His work came up in a search I did for patterns (I've become obsessed since purchasing two patterned tops), and although I wouldn't call these pieces patterned in the traditional sense, I was compelled to investigate further.

I pretty much love everything. The laced shoes, the knitwork, even the leggings on the pieces from Spring. The first look is my favorite, I love the heavy inverted triangle at the neck, which looks to be corded or laced, and how it moves down to meet up with the tulle at the skirt. I suppose it could be said that it has a peculiar visual effect on the bust, making it look slightly low, small, and spherical. But you know, I'm into it. I'd wear it in a heartbeat.


source: nymag

goodbye phi

Phi is no more! It has been lost to the recession. Quel tragique! No, but really, I'm sad. Phi did some cool shit. Let us mournfully look at their most recent collection:

This collection has everything I love: straps, buckles, zippers, FAN LACING. It actually looks a lot like the two medical corsets I bought at a vintage clothing store near school for $5 each a few months back. But, you know, better fitting and in nicer colors (pink and beige, anyone?). My new mission is just going to have to be finding and collecting any Phi pieces I possibly can (in all likelihood none).

Gah! Look at those straps! I die.

source: nymag.com

fall 2009 reconsidered

You know, when I first saw this collection, D&G Fall 2009, I wasn't particularly impressed with it. The heavy fabric, the Marilyn Monroe references I think I remember seeing, I had very little feeling towards it either way, actually. It just was. And then today, while browsing through an interminable selection of white and cream runway looks from Fall (I am deeply invested in a winter white 2009), I came upon one of these looks again, and for some reason, they really appealed to me.

Maybe the collection resonates with me now, as opposed to this Spring when I dismissed it, is the fact that I've entirely divested my wardrobe of pants (ok, I still have them but don't wear them). Had I not moved into a co-op and gotten too... shall we say, voluptuous, for my many pairs of almost identical dark, skinny J Brand jeans, I wouldn't have moved entirely to wearing skirts, and thus wouldn't have taken such a fancy to these looks.

But since skirts compose essentially the entirety of my wardrobe now, I can't help but be enchanted by these looks. Or at least the silhouette. I love the rounded little belljar (not sure how to describe it really) skirts that sit at the waist and are so very short. They make the models' legs look miles long, and although I'm not exactly statuesque in height, I still love it. The dark colors, the heavy fabrics, now they just look like the sumptuous trappings of the Russian imperial period rather than stodgy and evoking musty old lace. I'm soooo into it. This could be a new look for me.

Of course, if I'm being honest with myself, this look, this silhouette is not entirely new for me. It's similar to the one Miuccia Prada put out for Miu Miu Spring 2008. And I'm fine with that.